Inside: Free pattern for my needle knit Eyelet Bag. This easy project uses seamed squares and has removeable handles. Includes written instructions, diagrams and tutorial videos for each step for both right and left handed knitters.
When I crocheted my Sunflower Bag, I had a feeling that my knitters would want a similar project. So, what’s designer to do?
Get designing!
I knew I’d need to start with a knit square. I thought about using a simple mitered square, but I wanted a more open feel like the granny square on the Sunflower Bag. I decided to go with a corner to corner square.
This soft and airy shoulder bag uses 13 C2C Eyelet Squares pieced together along with stylish braided handles that are comfortable on your shoulder. I also include instructions to add an optional fabric lining and pocket.
This pattern includes detailed written instructions, schematics for seaming the bag, and links to fully captioned tutorial videos demonstrating how to knit the squares and handles, seam the bag, and make and sew in the lining and pocket. It’s a full knit along for both right and left handed knitters.
To make the loom knit version of this pattern go to this link: Loom Knit Eyelet Bag
Needle Knit Eyelet Bag
By Kristen Mangus
A downloadable PDF of this pattern is available in my Etsy store or from Ravelry at the links below:
MATERIALS
(Materials list may contain affiliate links to products I used to make this project. Using these links cost you nothing, but helps support GKK.)
Yarn
Medium (#4) worsted weight yarn – 515 yds.
Yarn Bee Fundamental Cotton (164 yds./3.5 oz., 150 m/100 g)
4 balls needed. Color Camel used in samples.
Needles
US 7 (4.5 mm) circular needle with 16” cord
Knitters Pride Mindfull Collection Lace Tips used in sample.
Notions:
Tapestry needle
Measuring tape
4 1” Swivel Snap Hooks (2 hooks per strap)
15 locking stitch markers or safety pins (for bag assembly)
Fabric for lining – approx. ¾-1 yd [18” x 36” (46 x 91.5 cm) used for bag lining and additional for interior pocket] (optional)
Iron for pressing fabric (optional)
Straight pins (optional)
Sewing needle and thread in matching color to sew lining to bag (optional)
ABBREVIATIONS
Approx = approximately
Beg = Beginning
Cont = Continue
K = Knit
K2tog = Knit 2 together
P2tog = Purl 2 together
P = Purl
Psso = Pass slipped stitch over
Sl = Slip
Ssk= Slip slip knit
YO = Yarnover (see notes)
Pat = Pattern
Rep = Repeat
Rnd = Round
St(s) = Stitch(es)
New to knitting? I’ve got a How to Knit Beginner Video Series to teach you ALL the basics.
GAUGE 17 sts x 30 rows = 4” x 4” (10 x 10 cm) in eyelet pattern (after blocking)
SKILL LEVEL Easy
MEASUREMENTS
Bag body: 15.75” x 18” (40 x 46 cm)
Bag body with handles*: 15.75” x 32.5” (40 x 82.5 cm)
*Handles will stretch approx. 3-4” (8-10 cm) with a loaded bag.
Needle Knit Eyelet Bag
Part 1: C2C Eyelet Squares (Make 13)
MEASUREMENTS Approx 6.5” x 6.5” (16.5 x 16.5 cm)
NOTES
Longtail cast on is recommended.
TUTORIAL VIDEOS
These videos show the C2C Eyelet Square from cast on to bind off.
Right handed
Left handed
INSTRUCTIONS
Cast on 3 sts.
Foundation Row (WS): Knit 3.
Row 1 (RS): K2, yo, k1. [4 sts]
Row 2: K2, yo, knit to end of row. [5 sts]
Row 3: K2, yo, knit to end of row. [6 sts]
Row 4: K2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [7 sts]
Row 5: K2, yo, knit to end of row. [8 sts]
Row 6: K2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [9 sts]
Row 7: K2, yo (twice). Knit to end of row. [11 sts]
Row 8: K2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [12 sts]
Row 9: K2, yo, knit to end of row. [13 sts]
Row 10: K2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [14 sts]
Row 11: K2, yo (twice). Ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, knit to end of row. [15 sts]
Row 12: K2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [16 sts]
Row 13: K2, yo, knit to end of row. [17 sts]
Row 14: K2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [18 sts]
Row 15: K2, yo (twice). Ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, yo. K5 [19 sts]
Row 16: K2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [20 sts]
Row 17: K2, yo, knit to end of row. [21 sts]
Row 18: K2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [22 sts]
Row 19: K2, yo (twice). Ssk, k1, k2tog, yo. *K2, k2tog, yo. Rep from * once. Knit to end of row. [23 sts]
Row 20: K2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [24 sts]
Row 21: K2, yo, knit to end of row. [25 sts]
Row 22: K2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [26 sts]
Row 23: K2, yo (twice). Ssk, k1, k2tog, yo. *K2, k2tog, yo. Rep from * twice. K5. [27 sts]
Row 24: K2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [28 sts]
Row 25: K2, yo, knit to end of row. [29 sts]
Row 26: K2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [30 sts]
Row 27: K2, yo (twice). Ssk, k1, k2tog, yo. *K2, k2tog, yo. Rep from * three times. K5. [31 sts]
Row 28: K2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [32 sts]
Row 29: K2, yo, knit to end of row. [33 sts]
Row 30: K2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [34 sts]
Row 31: K2, yo (twice). Ssk, k1, k2tog, yo. *K2, k2tog, yo. Rep from * four times. K5. [35 sts]
Row 32: K2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [36 sts]
Row 33: K2, yo, knit to end of row. [37 sts]
Row 34: K2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [38 sts]
Decrease:
Row 35: K1, k2tog, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo. *K2, k2tog, yo. Rep from * five times. K6. [37 sts]
Row 36: K1, k2tog, yo, p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [36 sts]
Row 37: K1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to end of row. [35 sts]
Row 38: K1, k2tog, yo, p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [34 sts]
Row 39: K1, k2tog, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo. *K2, k2tog, yo. Rep from * four times. K6. [33 sts]
Row 40: K1, k2tog, yo, p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [32 sts]
Row 41: K1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to end of row. [31 sts]
Row 42: K1, k2tog, yo, p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [30 sts]
Row 43: K1, k2tog, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo. *K2, k2tog, yo. Rep from * three times. K6. [29 sts]
Row 44: K1, k2tog, yo, p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [28 sts]
Row 45: K1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to end of row. [27 sts]
Row 46: K1, k2tog, yo, p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [26 sts]
Row 47: K1, k2tog, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo. *K2, k2tog, yo. Rep from * twice. K6. [25 sts]
Row 48: K1, k2tog, yo, p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [24 sts]
Row 49: K1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to end of row. [23 sts]
Row 50: K1, k2tog, yo, p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [22 sts]
Row 51: K1, k2tog, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo. *K2, k2tog, yo. Rep from * once. K6. [21 sts]
Row 52: K1, k2tog, yo, p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [20 sts]
Row 53: K1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to end of row. [19 sts]
Row 54: K1, k2tog, yo, p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [18 sts]
Row 55: K1, k2tog, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k6. [17 sts]
Row 56: K1, k2tog, yo, p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [16 sts]
Row 57: K1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to end of row. [15 sts]
Row 58: K1, k2tog, yo, p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [14 sts]
Row 59: K1, k2tog, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k6. [13 sts]
Row 60: K1, k2tog, yo, p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [12 sts]
Row 61: K1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to end of row. [11 sts]
Row 62: K1, k2tog, yo, p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, k2. [10 sts]
The last 6 rows vary in their decrease from above. Pay attention to rows and stitch count.
Row 63: K1, k2tog, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2. [8 sts]
Row 64: K1, k2tog, yo, p2tog, p1, k2. [7 sts]
Row 65: K1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2. [6 sts]
Row 66: K1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k1. [5 sts]
Row 67: K1, k2tog (twice) [3 sts]
Row 68: Sl1, k2tog, psso.
Cut tail and pull through last loop to fasten off. Weave in ends.
Block to a 6.5” (16.5 cm) square. Without blocking the shape settles into a slightly elongated diamond. Blocking ensures you get a perfect square.
Needle Knit Eyelet Bag
Part 2: Seaming
NOTES
I divided the seaming into sections, first lay out the squares on a flat surface, then work 4 separate seams joining all the squares.
NOTE: This bag is seamed on the inside (wrong side). Be sure when you pin your squares together the stitch markers are on the wrong side.
Right/Left handed: For the seaming, I created different diagrams for right and left handed knitters. Be sure you’re following the correct diagrams.
Seaming method: I am using the backstitch to seam the squares together. I like this method for a bag because it makes a strong seam. For each seam you will need approx. 4x the length of the seam in your yarn.
Needle Knit Eyelet Bag Seaming Tutorial Videos
Assembly and Seaming
The following tutorial demonstrates how to lay out and seam the squares into the bag.
Right handed
Left handed
INSTRUCTIONS
Step 1: Lay out the squares
First, arrange your squares RIGHT side down in the pattern shown in the schematic below.
Then, join all corners with locking stitch markers or tie them with scrap yarn. You want to create one piece.
Next, carefully fold squares 7-13 under along the diagonal of square 6 to lay them under squares 1-5. You should have the right sides of the squares together.
Lastly, fold squares 11 and 13 along the fold lines to align the corners. Attach the corner to the others on the stitch marker at the join.
Step 2: Seaming-Right-handed (see below for left-handed)
Seam #1 Steps:
1: Begin on lower RIGHT diagonal edge on FRONT of bag. Seam front and back squares along the diagonal edge.
2-4: Seam squares on front of bag only working up toward the top outside corner. TURN bag over to continue on BACK.
5-7: Seam back squares only working down toward bottom edge. Cut yarn.
Seam #2 Steps:
1: Begin on lower RIGHT diagonal edge on BACK of bag. Seam front and back squares along the diagonal edge.
2-4: Seam squares on back of bag only working up toward the top outside corner. TURN bag over to continue on FRONT.
5-7: Seam front squares only working down toward bottom edge. Cut yarn.
Seam #3 Steps:
1 & 2: Starting at top center on FRONT of bag seam front squares to outside edge. TURN bag to continue on BACK.
3 & 4: Seam back squares up to center back. Do NOT cut yarn. Continue with Seam #4 using the same yarn.
Seam #4 Steps:
1 & 2: Continuing from Seam #3 at top center on BACK seam back squares only.
FLIP bag over to continue on FRONT.
3 & 4: Seam front squares up to center point. Cut yarn. Weave in all tails.
Step 2: Seaming-Left-handed (see above for right-handed)
Seam 1:
1: Begin on lower LEFT diagonal edge on FRONT of bag. Seam front and back squares along the diagonal edge.
2-4: Seam squares on front of bag only working up toward the top outside corner. TURN bag over to continue on BACK.
5-7: Seam back squares only working down toward bottom edge. Cut yarn.
Seam #2 Steps
1: Begin on lower LEFT diagonal edge on BACK of bag. Seam front and back squares along the diagonal edge.
2-4: Seam squares on back of bag only working up toward the top outside corner. TURN bag over to continue on FRONT.
5-7: Seam front squares only working down toward bottom edge. Cut yarn.
Seam #3 Steps
1 & 2: Starting at top center on FRONT of bag seam front squares to side edge. TURN bag to continue on BACK.
3 & 4: Seam back squares up to center back. Do NOT cut yarn. Continue with Seam #4 using the same yarn.
Seam #4 Steps
1 & 2: Continuing from Seam #3 at top center on BACK seam back squares only.
FLIP bag over to continue on FRONT.
3 & 4: Seam front squares up to center point. Cut yarn. Weave in all tails.
Needle Knit Eyelet Bag
Part 3: I-cord Braided Handles (Make 2)
MEASUREMENTS
Approx .5” x 30” (1.3 cm x 76 cm) including hooks
NOTES
This pattern uses three 2-stitch i-cords braided together. Braiding the i-cords and seaming shortens the total length so knit each i-cord at least 2” longer than the length you desire for your final strap.
Swivel Snap Hooks: This product is sewn to either end of the strap and clips onto your bag. This allows you to change the straps. They are found at the affiliate link listed above or in the sewing notions area of your local craft store.
Needle Knit I-Cord Braided Handle Tutorial Videos
These videos show you how to knit, braid and attach the swivel hooks to the handle. Knitting the i-cord is shown on DPNs, straight, and circular needles.
Right handed
Left handed
INSTRUCTIONS
Makes 1 braided strap.
Knit 3 I-cords:
- Cast on 2 stitches leaving a 12-18” tail.
- Knit both stitches.
- Next without turning your work,
- If using straight needles, slip your stitches back onto your non-working needle.
- If using DPNs or circular, slide your stitches to the other end of your needle.
- Keep on RS and knit both stitches. (NOTE: Your working yarn should be in the back coming from the last stitch in the row.)
- Repeat Steps 2-4 until your i-cord measures 32” or until your desired length plus 2”. (NOTE: Remember to tug on your i-cord to lengthen and set the stitches before you measure.)
- Bind off both stitches and cut yarn leaving a 12-18” yarn tail for seaming. Tug on yarn tail to tighten.
Repeat Steps 1-6 to make 3 i-cords.
Seam I-cord ends:
Lay all three cords on table next to each other lining up the end of each cord and making sure the ends are not twisted. Measure 1” (approx. 5-6 rows) from edge of cords. On next row secure all 3 i-cords together with a large stitch marker making sure to go through the middle of each cord.
Now we are going to attach the ends of the i-cords into a flat panel. Using yarn tail from middle cord, sew through the first stitch of one of the outer cords. Sew through the edge of the stitch on the row above before sewing through the first stitch on all three cords. Now continue sewing through all 3 cords row by row up to the stitch marker. Working back in the opposite direction, continue sewing through all 3 cords row by row back to the beginning. Weave in tail and cut.
Attach first swivel snap hook:
Slide swivel hook into place pulling through remaining tails. Fold over to line up cord end to stitch marker. Using one yarn tail, sew through both layers from one side to the other making to sure to sew through each i-cord. Sew back through to other side to reinforce. Weave in tail and cut. Repeat this process on the next row down with the other yarn tail. This creates a strong secure seam for the hook. Remove stitch marker.
Braid:
Secure the hook to a table using tape or clip onto something secure for tension. Make a simple 3-strand braid using the instructions below.
- Pick up one outer strand and place it crossing the center stand. Pull the center strand toward the outside edge.
- Pick up the opposite outer strand and cross it over the center strand. Pull the center strand toward the outside edge.
- Repeat Steps and 1 and 2 alternating sides finishing when you have 1” of the i-cord left.
Secure with locking stitch marker as you did with the other end making sure not to twist the cord ends.
Seam ends and attach second hook:
Repeat instructions above to sew the three cords together then attach the second hook.
Repeat all steps to make another strap, if needed.
Needle Knit Eyelet Bag
Part 4: Make and Sew in Lining (optional)
NOTES
These instructions teach you how to measure, cut out and sew a bag lining. I also included an optional interior pocket.
You can sew the bag lining by hand with a needle and thread or use a sewing machine.
I recommend ironing your fabric before cutting it out.
How to Add a Lining/Pocket Tutorial Videos
This tutorial shows you how to cut and sew in a bag lining.
NOTE: The project shown in the video is not the Eyelet Bag. I made the video for a crochet bag, but the technique is the same for a knit project.
Right handed
Left handed
INSTRUCTIONS
- Cut 1 18” x 36” rectangle out of your fabric and fold to make an 18” square. Press fabric along fold line.
- Lay bag on top of fabric with fold at the bottom of the bag.
- Using a pencil or chalk, mark the fabric about ½” away from the edge of the bag. I recommend using a straight edge ruler when marking.
- Cut out bag lining along marked lines making sure to cut through both layers of fabric.
- [Optional Pocket] Using the leftover fabric cut out a single rectangle approx. 10” x 19” that will fit inside your lining. Fold over ½” along each edge and press with iron. Fold pocket in half with folded edges on the inside to make a square and press fold flat.
- [Optional Pocket cont.] Unfold bag lining piece and lay pocket on inside of bag with pocket fold toward the top of the bag. Make sure the pocket is at least 1” below the top edge of the bag lining. Pin pocket to lining with straight pins. Using needle and thread or machine sew pocket to lining along side and bottom edges only leaving the top open.
- Fold bag lining along bottom edge with pocket on the inside and align top edges. Pin side and bottom angled edges of bag lining through both layers. Sew bag lining edges.
- Place bag lining inside bag lining up top edges and side seams. Starting at a side seam, fold top edge of lining over about ½” and pin to bag with folded edge between the lining and the bag.
- Continue all the way around the top edge folding over and pinning. At top points where handles attach, snip the point off the lining to get a smooth edge. At the bottom “valley” between the points snip a straight line ½” deep to allow you to fold over the edge.
- Sew lining to bag just under the row of eyelets along top of bag.